Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a international community of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always defined its heart: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – little-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to discover these narratives and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
